Review: Old Overholt Rye Whiskey

One of my goals in preparing these early reviews is to take a look at several of the standard, entry-level products that are widely available to the average consumer as a way of establishing a general baseline for my rating scale.  Selfishly, I also would like to record my thoughts on certain bottles that are nearing their end and that I do not necessarily plan on replacing once they are gone.  Old Overholt has the unfortunate distinction of being one such bottle.

Old Overholt is a historic rye whiskey brand.  In fact, it may well be the preeminent historic rye whiskey brand in the United States, with a rich history and tradition that goes back more than 200 years.  David Wondrich has told its story far better than I ever could, and I would recommend that you give his article, The Rise and Fall of America's Oldest Whiskey, a read if you have any further interest.

Time has not been kind to Old Overholt. Under the current ownership of Beam Suntory, the brand has firmly established its place on the proverbial (and literal) bottom shelf.  But, it does seem to garner a surprising amount of affection among the cocktail community, which is how I first came to be interested enough to purchase the bottle that I finished in connection with this review.

Bottle: 40% ABV, 3 year age statement (inconspicuously hidden on the back of the neck label), ~$17, "straight rye whiskey"

Nose: Mellow nose reflecting the low proof.  Sweet cherries (Luxardo?), similar to smelling a pre-made Manhattan.  Subtle spices and herbs are present, including dill, black pepper and mint along with a grassy/hay note.

Taste:  Again, the low proof shines through with a very "smooth" experience, almost like sipping on black tea that has a little too much sugar in it.  Hints of oak and spice, along with the re-appearance of that hay note from the nose and some banana on the finish.

Thoughts:  I can't say that I totally understand the affection some have for present-day Old Overholt.  Perhaps it is the nostalgia for a once-proud brand that has not received enough love (from consumers or its owner) in more recent times (similar to the resurgence of PBR among some crowds).  Or perhaps the answer is as simple as it being fairly inoffensive and having an attractive price tag.  In any event, while I've certainly had worse whiskies, I find Old Overholt to be under-proofed and a little too inoffensive (i.e. boring) compared to some of its peers at a similar price point to be likely to compel a re-purchase now that this bottle is empty.

Rating: C

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.