Review: Wild Turkey Master's Keep Revival

Wild Turkey recently released Revival, this year's edition of its Master's Keep series, which seems to be hitting store shelves in Southern California this week.  While normally I would wait until a little deeper into a bottle to write up a review like this, given the recency of the release and the price tag associated with it, I erred on the side of posting something sooner than later in case others are debating whether to indulge.  I certainly wouldn't have minded being able to find a few more quality reviews before doing so myself.

The shtick on Revival is that it is a 12-15 year old Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey produced by Wild Turkey that is then finished in Spanish oloroso sherry casks that are 20 years old.  I'm not sure that the age of the finishing casks matters, but Wild Turkey seems to think that it does, so there you go.  Revival is bottled at Wild Turkey's classic 101 proof.

Ignoring price, I have enjoyed both of the prior U.S. releases of Master's Keep that Wild Turkey has put out - especially last year's Decades release.  The packaging on these is great - complete with an attractive box and bottle and a heavy cork stopper - and makes for a great gift in the sense in that it conveys a quality product is held within (notwithstanding that the quality of the packaging and liquid inside, of course, do not always positively correlate).  The big sticking point on these releases have been the price, as they are on the high end of the possibly acceptable range for a special release whiskey (at least the ones that don't immediately generate hysteria on the secondary market).  The one positive side effect of that is that these are limited edition whiskeys that you can actually find on a store shelf at MSRP (or sometimes even occasionally under), which is a disappointingly rare treat these days.

Bottle: 50.5% ABV, Aged 12-15 years (making it a 12 year old bourbon, but the bottle itself does include that range which is somewhat unusual), ~$140, "Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey finished in oloroso sherry casks", Batch No. 1, Bottle No. 29753

Nose: The first thing that hits me is peanut butter - not in a Beam peanut funk sort of way, but more of a light creamy peanut butter - and cherry syrup.  Chocolate and nougat evocative of a Baby Ruth candy bar.  Rich mahogany and many leather-bound books. Or maybe just leather. Some classic oak notes - vanilla and tannin with baking spices, specifically cloves and a muted cinnamon.  The alcohol occasionally pops through more than I would expect for a whiskey that is "only" 101 proof, but not in an unpleasant way. 

Taste: On the palate, it delivers much of what the nose promises - it's somewhat sweet with raisins, figs, dried cherries and burnt orange peel.  The oak notes come through with tobacco, chocolate, leather and baking spices. Peanuts again, but this time actual peanuts, rather than peanut butter. Pleasant, lingering finish.    

Thoughts: I was not particularly excited about this release when it was first announced. I have no major objections in general to cask-finished whiskies, but the novelty of the concept has sort of worn off as various brands have come out with them over the last few years.  I was worried that this may be a Wild Turkey misstep that is just a little too late to the party.  But, this is not that. I really enjoyed this bourbon. This is not a "sherry bomb" that one might find in the Scotch world, as the sherry influence positively contributes to the natural attributes of the bourbon in a way that enhances rather than replaces. The added sweetness, while not over the top, may typecast it as a "dessert bourbon" among some people, although I find it thoroughly enjoyable.

While cost is not a factor in the score below, one could reasonably question whether Revival is worth the price of admission.  One common theme I have seen from others considering this purchase is whether one bottle of this is worth two or three bottles of Russell's Reserve Single Barrel, for example. That's a tough threshold to meet considering the tremendous quality-to-price ratio those tend to represent.  For what it's worth, I had one of my glasses of this side-by-side with a store selection of Russell's Reserve Single Barrel that I had open and convenient.  I preferred Revival to this particular single barrel pick, although the latter had more of a minty profile that seemed out of place in comparison.  Did I like it 2-3x as much?  Probably not, but, nevertheless, I don't regret picking up a bottle of Revival and will take some degree of comfort in knowing that I can go down to the store and pick up a second bottle of this without much hassle should the mood strike. 

Rating: B+

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Old Potrero Single Malt Straight Rye Whiskey

Old Potrero Single Malt Straight Rye Whiskey is an unusual product.

It is produced by a California "craft" distiller - Hotaling & Co., formerly known as Anchor Distilling Company before the sale of its sister company, Anchor Brewing Co., to Sapporo in 2017.  But, unlike most craft distillers, this one has been around for a long time, having opened its doors in 1993.

Given that it is one of the veterans of the craft distilling movement, Anchor has released some whiskies - that it actually distilled - that have reached into the teenage years of maturity under its Hotalings line.  This particular bottle of its standard straight rye does not carry an age statement, although the company's marketing materials peg it as having spent at least four years and six months in new charred oak barrels. 

In addition, Old Potrero is a pot distilled single malt whiskey.  But, it is decidedly not malt whiskey in the Scottish sense of the phrase, being a product of 100% malted rye (rather than malted barley).

The distillery describes this whiskey as its take on America's original whiskey.

Bottle: 48.5% ABV, No Age Statement (marketing materials indicate 4 years and six months of age), ~$60, "single malt straight rye whiskey", 10-SRW-ARM-O

Nose: Sweet and zesty with grain-forward bread and malt notes, coupled with a big pop of mint. Stone fruits - peaches, perhaps apricots.  Strawberries and cream.  Subtle notes of baking spices.  All over the place, but not in an unpleasant way.

Taste: Continues with the sweet yet minty flavor combo, with menthol and baking spices, in this case Ceylon cinnamon and nutmeg.  Medium-rich mouthfeel and a pleasant, lingering finish with toffee, hops (a slightly hoppy porter, not an IPA) and a bit of pine.  Definitely definitely has some "craft" notes - grain forward with pine - but on balance pulls it off in an interesting way.     

Thoughts: I expect that this is a very polarizing whiskey.  If you are considering buying this as a substitute for a reasonably well aged Kentucky or Indiana rye, you are likely to be disappointed.  But, if you go into this with an open mind about drinking an interesting spirit, you might find this to fit the bill quite well.  It's the type of whiskey that I would imagine a grappa or rhum agricole lover might enjoy as a cross-over spirit.  For me personally, I find it to be rather cravable - I don't have it too often, but when I'm in the mood for this little else will do.

I intend to pick up another bottle of Old Potrero, although I wish it didn't cost so much to do so.  While price is not a factor in the score below, I can't really argue that this is a great value for the average bourbon drinker in comparison to other whiskies of a similar age.

Rating: B

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: E.H. Taylor, Jr. Small Batch Bourbon

On the heels of reviewing a private barrel of Eagle Rare 10 year and on a mission to kill off a few bottles that have been lingering around for a long time, I decided to revisit another member of the Buffalo Trace #1 rye mashbill family, the Small Batch edition of the E.H. Taylor, Jr. line.

The E.H. Taylor line of whiskies from Buffalo Trace is interesting and in some ways unusual mix.  The core product line consists of a bottled-in-bond small batch bourbon, a bottled-in-bond single barrel bourbon, a barrel proof bourbon and a bottled-in-bond rye whiskey.  It also includes a number of limited editions that tend to be more experimental in nature, such as the recent Four Grain that was named the World Whisky of the Year by Jim Murray in the 2017 Whisky Bible.

The E.H. Taylor whiskies have attractive labels, usually come in sweet tubes, and tend to be fairly expensive (and increasingly hard to find) compared to what the stats on the whiskey might suggest.  The small batch being reviewed here is by far the cheapest, but, based on my prior tastings of the core group, my recollection is that it is the one that I actually enjoy the most.  As this bottle nears its end, it is time to confirm if that status has in fact held up.

Bottle: 50% ABV, Bottled-In-Bond, No Age Statement (although bottled-in-bond requires that it be at least 4 years old), ~$40, "straight Kentucky bourbon whiskey"

Nose: Initially hit with sweet, fruity notes of vanilla frosting, candy apple, cherry and orange citrus.  The alcohol pops through while giving off some mint and a bit of an off-putting bitterness.

Taste: The bitterness carries through to the palate, where I find vanilla and caramel offset by bitter oak and cherry notes.  The finish lingers pleasantly with baking spices emerging on the back of the throat.

Thoughts: This is perfectly fine bourbon, although I find it to be a little out of balance in the direction of those bitter oak notes.  I would certainly drink it again without reservation, but, at $40+ a bottle and somewhat limited availability, there are other bourbons that I like as much or more that cost less, and I likely won't be rushing out to replace this bottle.

Rating: C+

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Bourbon (Single Barrel No. 124 Bottled for The Original Wine Club)

As a 10 year old age-stated bourbon produced by Buffalo Trace that is fairly readily available for approximately $30, Eagle Rare is one of the affordable staples of the American whiskey market whose continued availability with that age statement and at that price seems "too good to be true" in today's era of disappearing age statements, availability shortages and rising prices.

It will be interesting to see how this brand develops as the bourbon boom soldiers on, as one could easily imagine that age statement disappearing (similar to the fates of Elijah Craig's 12 year age statement and Knob Creek's 9 year age statement) or availability becoming more scarce (along the lines of the Weller line from Buffalo Trace, although, fortunately for fans of this product, Eagle Rare lacks the Van Winkle connection that has put additional strain on Weller availability).  Indeed, there has been news in recent days that Buffalo Trace will not make any private barrels of Eagle Rare available in 2018.

So, keeping all of that in mind, the news of the Eagle Rare private barrels being (temporarily?) suspended provides a good reminder to enjoy products like this as they remain available and affordable.  Today, I am reviewing a private barrel of 10 year old Eagle Rare (Barrel No. 124) that was bottled for The Original Wine Club.

Bottle: 45% ABV, 10 years old, ~$30, "Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey", Barrel No. 124 Bottled for The Original Wine Club in Santa Ana, California

Nose: The age shines through on the nose with sweet oak, vanilla and furniture polish.  There is a distinct cherry note that I often find in the Buffalo Trace #1 rye mashbill, along with subtle baking spices and a hint of anise.

Taste: The age and proof (or lack thereof) come through on the palate with a medium thin-mouthfeel and prominent oak notes that provide a pleasant if somewhat mundane drinking experience, almost like drinking an oak-infused tea.  Vanilla and subtle cherry appear again, along with baking spices that linger on the finish.

Thoughts: This is a classic exemplar of the bourbon category that is both approachable and affordable and has a place in any home bar.  It is not the most exciting bourbon and its relatively low proof will limit the "wow" factor for serious whiskey geeks, but this the perfect type of bourbon that one should recommend to a new drinker that wants to gain a basic understanding of the category.   

Rating: B-

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Russell's Reserve 10 Year Old Small Batch Bourbon

For my third review, I have decided to take a look at the third whiskey that I ever purchased "with intent".  Or, better put, an intent other than simply getting drunk.

Expectations are a funny thing.  I originally purchased this bottle for the sole reason that I happen to share the same last name as the Wild Turkey master distiller that produced this product.  The novelty of the name on the bottle and a reasonable price was enough to induce the purchase, but, other than those facts, I knew nothing else about the whiskey and had no expectations.  I liked it well enough, mostly using it for old fashioned duty at a time when I had not yet adjusted to drinking spirits neat.

Years have gone by and my drinking experience has significantly deepened since that initial purchase.  While I tend to keep a bottle of this in the house due in part to that same novelty, I more often than not find myself reaching for "better", more exciting and typically higher proof bourbons than this, including its single barrel brother.  My current expectation of it is something that is drinkable but not particularly notable.  Not bad, not the best, just fine; a B-.

At least that was my expectation going into last week.  My wife encouraged us to spend a few days at my in-laws, so I took the opportunity to go to a nearby liquor store and pick up some reinforcements.  The selection was underwhelming, but I settled on a return to this classic as a "least worst" option sufficient to meet the task at hand.  I was pleasantly surprised.

Bottle: 45% ABV, 10 years old, ~$30, "straight bourbon whiskey", Laser Code of LL/DE191010 meaning this was bottled in May 2015

Nose: Very pleasant nose with classic bourbon flavors of caramel, vanilla and nutmeg, together with some citrus and peanut notes.  Additional aromas of chocolate/cocoa - more specifically fresh baked brownies and cocoa pebbles(?).

Taste: A medium-thin mouthfeel and finish give away its relatively low proof, but the flavors are more prominent and enjoyable than I expect with milk chocolate, orange peel and oak providing strong baking spice notes (nutmeg and cinnamon in particular) that linger into the finish.  There's just a touch of bitterness present too, but my main takeaway is that this turns into a baking spice bomb in all the right ways.

Thoughts: I was genuinely surprised by how much I enjoyed this bottle.  My expectation was for this to be a B-, my expectation for the next bottle I buy is that it will be a B-, but, if I am being fair to this liquid, it is better than that.  The proof holds it back from scoring even higher as it fails to reach the dense concentration of flavors I look for in really great bourbon, but I have not had many 90 proof bourbons at a remotely similar price point that I have enjoyed as much as this.

Rating: B+

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Old Overholt Rye Whiskey

One of my goals in preparing these early reviews is to take a look at several of the standard, entry-level products that are widely available to the average consumer as a way of establishing a general baseline for my rating scale.  Selfishly, I also would like to record my thoughts on certain bottles that are nearing their end and that I do not necessarily plan on replacing once they are gone.  Old Overholt has the unfortunate distinction of being one such bottle.

Old Overholt is a historic rye whiskey brand.  In fact, it may well be the preeminent historic rye whiskey brand in the United States, with a rich history and tradition that goes back more than 200 years.  David Wondrich has told its story far better than I ever could, and I would recommend that you give his article, The Rise and Fall of America's Oldest Whiskey, a read if you have any further interest.

Time has not been kind to Old Overholt. Under the current ownership of Beam Suntory, the brand has firmly established its place on the proverbial (and literal) bottom shelf.  But, it does seem to garner a surprising amount of affection among the cocktail community, which is how I first came to be interested enough to purchase the bottle that I finished in connection with this review.

Bottle: 40% ABV, 3 year age statement (inconspicuously hidden on the back of the neck label), ~$17, "straight rye whiskey"

Nose: Mellow nose reflecting the low proof.  Sweet cherries (Luxardo?), similar to smelling a pre-made Manhattan.  Subtle spices and herbs are present, including dill, black pepper and mint along with a grassy/hay note.

Taste:  Again, the low proof shines through with a very "smooth" experience, almost like sipping on black tea that has a little too much sugar in it.  Hints of oak and spice, along with the re-appearance of that hay note from the nose and some banana on the finish.

Thoughts:  I can't say that I totally understand the affection some have for present-day Old Overholt.  Perhaps it is the nostalgia for a once-proud brand that has not received enough love (from consumers or its owner) in more recent times (similar to the resurgence of PBR among some crowds).  Or perhaps the answer is as simple as it being fairly inoffensive and having an attractive price tag.  In any event, while I've certainly had worse whiskies, I find Old Overholt to be under-proofed and a little too inoffensive (i.e. boring) compared to some of its peers at a similar price point to be likely to compel a re-purchase now that this bottle is empty.

Rating: C

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Russell's Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon (The Mixing Glass)

For my initial review, I am tasting a private bottling of Wild Turkey's Russell Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon.  Russell's Reserve is one of the higher end choices available among Wild Turkey's core lineup, and each single barrel edition is bottled at 110 proof (55% ABV) and non-chill filtered.  This particular bottle was selected by both The Mixing Glass, a specialty spirits and cocktail shop in Costa Mesa, California, and Vaca, a restaurant led by former Top Chef contestant Amar Santana.  

Bottle: 55% ABV, No Age Statement (reportedly these are typically 8-9 years old), ~$60, Barrel #3052, Rickhouse O, Floor 5; Non-Chill Filtered

Nose: Sweet notes of vanilla, cherry, and brown sugar, together with baking spices, oak and a hint of peanut.

Taste:  Much more oak-forward than the nose let on with baking spices, orange peel and a general sense of bitterness.  Oily mouthfeel but finish is a bit short and drying.  Spicy and enjoyable, if a touch out of balance in favor of the wood notes.

Thoughts:  I usually find that the Russell's Reserve Single Barrel bottlings are great exemplars of "what bourbon should taste like", and this bottle falls within the range of that description.  The private barrels of this seem to offer opportunities for the selecting store to (somewhat) stray from the traditional profile of the off-the-shelf product, and in this case the bitterness present in the heavy oak notes cause me to like this a little less than the standard version.

Rating: B

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.