Review: Russell's Reserve 10 Year Old Small Batch Bourbon

For my third review, I have decided to take a look at the third whiskey that I ever purchased "with intent".  Or, better put, an intent other than simply getting drunk.

Expectations are a funny thing.  I originally purchased this bottle for the sole reason that I happen to share the same last name as the Wild Turkey master distiller that produced this product.  The novelty of the name on the bottle and a reasonable price was enough to induce the purchase, but, other than those facts, I knew nothing else about the whiskey and had no expectations.  I liked it well enough, mostly using it for old fashioned duty at a time when I had not yet adjusted to drinking spirits neat.

Years have gone by and my drinking experience has significantly deepened since that initial purchase.  While I tend to keep a bottle of this in the house due in part to that same novelty, I more often than not find myself reaching for "better", more exciting and typically higher proof bourbons than this, including its single barrel brother.  My current expectation of it is something that is drinkable but not particularly notable.  Not bad, not the best, just fine; a B-.

At least that was my expectation going into last week.  My wife encouraged us to spend a few days at my in-laws, so I took the opportunity to go to a nearby liquor store and pick up some reinforcements.  The selection was underwhelming, but I settled on a return to this classic as a "least worst" option sufficient to meet the task at hand.  I was pleasantly surprised.

Bottle: 45% ABV, 10 years old, ~$30, "straight bourbon whiskey", Laser Code of LL/DE191010 meaning this was bottled in May 2015

Nose: Very pleasant nose with classic bourbon flavors of caramel, vanilla and nutmeg, together with some citrus and peanut notes.  Additional aromas of chocolate/cocoa - more specifically fresh baked brownies and cocoa pebbles(?).

Taste: A medium-thin mouthfeel and finish give away its relatively low proof, but the flavors are more prominent and enjoyable than I expect with milk chocolate, orange peel and oak providing strong baking spice notes (nutmeg and cinnamon in particular) that linger into the finish.  There's just a touch of bitterness present too, but my main takeaway is that this turns into a baking spice bomb in all the right ways.

Thoughts: I was genuinely surprised by how much I enjoyed this bottle.  My expectation was for this to be a B-, my expectation for the next bottle I buy is that it will be a B-, but, if I am being fair to this liquid, it is better than that.  The proof holds it back from scoring even higher as it fails to reach the dense concentration of flavors I look for in really great bourbon, but I have not had many 90 proof bourbons at a remotely similar price point that I have enjoyed as much as this.

Rating: B+

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Old Overholt Rye Whiskey

One of my goals in preparing these early reviews is to take a look at several of the standard, entry-level products that are widely available to the average consumer as a way of establishing a general baseline for my rating scale.  Selfishly, I also would like to record my thoughts on certain bottles that are nearing their end and that I do not necessarily plan on replacing once they are gone.  Old Overholt has the unfortunate distinction of being one such bottle.

Old Overholt is a historic rye whiskey brand.  In fact, it may well be the preeminent historic rye whiskey brand in the United States, with a rich history and tradition that goes back more than 200 years.  David Wondrich has told its story far better than I ever could, and I would recommend that you give his article, The Rise and Fall of America's Oldest Whiskey, a read if you have any further interest.

Time has not been kind to Old Overholt. Under the current ownership of Beam Suntory, the brand has firmly established its place on the proverbial (and literal) bottom shelf.  But, it does seem to garner a surprising amount of affection among the cocktail community, which is how I first came to be interested enough to purchase the bottle that I finished in connection with this review.

Bottle: 40% ABV, 3 year age statement (inconspicuously hidden on the back of the neck label), ~$17, "straight rye whiskey"

Nose: Mellow nose reflecting the low proof.  Sweet cherries (Luxardo?), similar to smelling a pre-made Manhattan.  Subtle spices and herbs are present, including dill, black pepper and mint along with a grassy/hay note.

Taste:  Again, the low proof shines through with a very "smooth" experience, almost like sipping on black tea that has a little too much sugar in it.  Hints of oak and spice, along with the re-appearance of that hay note from the nose and some banana on the finish.

Thoughts:  I can't say that I totally understand the affection some have for present-day Old Overholt.  Perhaps it is the nostalgia for a once-proud brand that has not received enough love (from consumers or its owner) in more recent times (similar to the resurgence of PBR among some crowds).  Or perhaps the answer is as simple as it being fairly inoffensive and having an attractive price tag.  In any event, while I've certainly had worse whiskies, I find Old Overholt to be under-proofed and a little too inoffensive (i.e. boring) compared to some of its peers at a similar price point to be likely to compel a re-purchase now that this bottle is empty.

Rating: C

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Review: Russell's Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon (The Mixing Glass)

For my initial review, I am tasting a private bottling of Wild Turkey's Russell Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon.  Russell's Reserve is one of the higher end choices available among Wild Turkey's core lineup, and each single barrel edition is bottled at 110 proof (55% ABV) and non-chill filtered.  This particular bottle was selected by both The Mixing Glass, a specialty spirits and cocktail shop in Costa Mesa, California, and Vaca, a restaurant led by former Top Chef contestant Amar Santana.  

Bottle: 55% ABV, No Age Statement (reportedly these are typically 8-9 years old), ~$60, Barrel #3052, Rickhouse O, Floor 5; Non-Chill Filtered

Nose: Sweet notes of vanilla, cherry, and brown sugar, together with baking spices, oak and a hint of peanut.

Taste:  Much more oak-forward than the nose let on with baking spices, orange peel and a general sense of bitterness.  Oily mouthfeel but finish is a bit short and drying.  Spicy and enjoyable, if a touch out of balance in favor of the wood notes.

Thoughts:  I usually find that the Russell's Reserve Single Barrel bottlings are great exemplars of "what bourbon should taste like", and this bottle falls within the range of that description.  The private barrels of this seem to offer opportunities for the selecting store to (somewhat) stray from the traditional profile of the off-the-shelf product, and in this case the bitterness present in the heavy oak notes cause me to like this a little less than the standard version.

Rating: B

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

The Beginning

Welcome to The Intelligent Imbiber, a not-so-clever riff on the classic value investing book of a similar name.  I am a fan of beverage alcohol in most of its various forms with a particular fondness for whiskey, other distilled spirits and the occasional craft beer.

I am regularly seeking to expand my knowledge and further develop my palate - all in an effort to better pretend that I know what I am talking about.  I plan on chronicling my adventures on that front on this blog and certainly hope that you'll follow along.  Cheers!