Saturday, June 16, 2018

Review: Wild Turkey Master's Keep Revival

Wild Turkey recently released Revival, this year's edition of its Master's Keep series, which seems to be hitting store shelves in Southern California this week.  While normally I would wait until a little deeper into a bottle to write up a review like this, given the recency of the release and the price tag associated with it, I erred on the side of posting something sooner than later in case others are debating whether to indulge.  I certainly wouldn't have minded being able to find a few more quality reviews before doing so myself.

The shtick on Revival is that it is a 12-15 year old Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey produced by Wild Turkey that is then finished in Spanish oloroso sherry casks that are 20 years old.  I'm not sure that the age of the finishing casks matters, but Wild Turkey seems to think that it does, so there you go.  Revival is bottled at Wild Turkey's classic 101 proof.

Ignoring price, I have enjoyed both of the prior U.S. releases of Master's Keep that Wild Turkey has put out - especially last year's Decades release.  The packaging on these is great - complete with an attractive box and bottle and a heavy cork stopper - and makes for a great gift in the sense in that it conveys a quality product is held within (notwithstanding that the quality of the packaging and liquid inside, of course, do not always positively correlate).  The big sticking point on these releases have been the price, as they are on the high end of the possibly acceptable range for a special release whiskey (at least the ones that don't immediately generate hysteria on the secondary market).  The one positive side effect of that is that these are limited edition whiskeys that you can actually find on a store shelf at MSRP (or sometimes even occasionally under), which is a disappointingly rare treat these days.


Bottle: 50.5% ABV, Aged 12-15 years (making it a 12 year old bourbon, but the bottle itself does include that range which is somewhat unusual), ~$140, "Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey finished in oloroso sherry casks", Batch No. 1, Bottle No. 29753

Nose: The first thing that hits me is peanut butter - not in a Beam peanut funk sort of way, but more of a light creamy peanut butter - and cherry syrup.  Chocolate and nougat evocative of a Baby Ruth candy bar.  Rich mahogany and many leather-bound books. Or maybe just leather. Some classic oak notes - vanilla and tannin with baking spices, specifically cloves and a muted cinnamon.  The alcohol occasionally pops through more than I would expect for a whiskey that is "only" 101 proof, but not in an unpleasant way. 

Taste: On the palate, it delivers much of what the nose promises - it's somewhat sweet with raisins, figs, dried cherries and burnt orange peel.  The oak notes come through with tobacco, chocolate, leather and baking spices. Peanuts again, but this time actual peanuts, rather than peanut butter. Pleasant, lingering finish.    

Thoughts: I was not particularly excited about this release when it was first announced. I have no major objections in general to cask-finished whiskies, but the novelty of the concept has sort of worn off as various brands have come out with them over the last few years.  I was worried that this may be a Wild Turkey misstep that is just a little too late to the party.  But, this is not that. I really enjoyed this bourbon. This is not a "sherry bomb" that one might find in the Scotch world, as the sherry influence positively contributes to the natural attributes of the bourbon in a way that enhances rather than replaces. The added sweetness, while not over the top, may typecast it as a "dessert bourbon" among some people, although I find it thoroughly enjoyable.

While cost is not a factor in the score below, one could reasonably question whether Revival is worth the price of admission.  One common theme I have seen from others considering this purchase is whether one bottle of this is worth two or three bottles of Russell's Reserve Single Barrel, for example. That's a tough threshold to meet considering the tremendous quality-to-price ratio those tend to represent.  For what it's worth, I had one of my glasses of this side-by-side with a store selection of Russell's Reserve Single Barrel that I had open and convenient.  I preferred Revival to this particular single barrel pick, although the latter had more of a minty profile that seemed out of place in comparison.  Did I like it 2-3x as much?  Probably not, but, nevertheless, I don't regret picking up a bottle of Revival and will take some degree of comfort in knowing that I can go down to the store and pick up a second bottle of this without much hassle should the mood strike. 

Rating: B+

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Review: Old Potrero Single Malt Straight Rye Whiskey

Old Potrero Single Malt Straight Rye Whiskey is an unusual product.

It is produced by a California "craft" distiller - Hotaling & Co., formerly known as Anchor Distilling Company before the sale of its sister company, Anchor Brewing Co., to Sapporo in 2017.  But, unlike most craft distillers, this one has been around for a long time, having opened its doors in 1993.

Given that it is one of the veterans of the craft distilling movement, Anchor has released some whiskies - that it actually distilled - that have reached into the teenage years of maturity under its Hotalings line.  This particular bottle of its standard straight rye does not carry an age statement, although the company's marketing materials peg it as having spent at least four years and six months in new charred oak barrels. 

In addition, Old Potrero is a pot distilled single malt whiskey.  But, it is decidedly not malt whiskey in the Scottish sense of the phrase, being a product of 100% malted rye (rather than malted barley).

The distillery describes this whiskey as its take on America's original whiskey.




Bottle: 48.5% ABV, No Age Statement (marketing materials indicate 4 years and six months of age), ~$60, "single malt straight rye whiskey", 10-SRW-ARM-O

Nose: Sweet and zesty with grain-forward bread and malt notes, coupled with a big pop of mint. Stone fruits - peaches, perhaps apricots.  Strawberries and cream.  Subtle notes of baking spices.  All over the place, but not in an unpleasant way.

Taste: Continues with the sweet yet minty flavor combo, with menthol and baking spices, in this case Ceylon cinnamon and nutmeg.  Medium-rich mouthfeel and a pleasant, lingering finish with toffee, hops (a slightly hoppy porter, not an IPA) and a bit of pine.  Definitely definitely has some "craft" notes - grain forward with pine - but on balance pulls it off in an interesting way.     

Thoughts: I expect that this is a very polarizing whiskey.  If you are considering buying this as a substitute for a reasonably well aged Kentucky or Indiana rye, you are likely to be disappointed.  But, if you go into this with an open mind about drinking an interesting spirit, you might find this to fit the bill quite well.  It's the type of whiskey that I would imagine a grappa or rhum agricole lover might enjoy as a cross-over spirit.  For me personally, I find it to be rather cravable - I don't have it too often, but when I'm in the mood for this little else will do.

I intend to pick up another bottle of Old Potrero, although I wish it didn't cost so much to do so.  While price is not a factor in the score below, I can't really argue that this is a great value for the average bourbon drinker in comparison to other whiskies of a similar age.

Rating: B

Regarding the grading scale, my grades loosely track the LAWS Scale, and the threshold for what constitutes a "good" or "recommended" spirit will be set in the C+ to B- range. Price is not considered in assigning a rating.